La Chic Claims

         austinware-2-4

As surfers, exploration fulfills our deepest need for adventure. Surf adventure takes us into the depths of jungles in search of the elusive epic wave. In this video I explore the southern latitudes in search of epic waves, while showing my deepest gratitude for the adventure with gestures of excitement (claims).

Video by gagehingeley.com

Additional Footage: Kevin Jansen

Wipeout Dementia

Dementia is becoming a wide spread health challenge around the world. Dementia is a brain disease, which decreases memory, emotions, motivation and language functions. Changes in the body can cause loss of brain function, such as diseases that affect blood circulation. In Alzheimer’s disease (most common type of dementia) little plaques of protien accumulate in the brain. This loss of brain function happens as we age but dementia consumes the brain much faster than ageing. “As more people live longer, dementia is becoming more common in the population as a whole ” (Wikipedia) The population of aging people 65 and older is at a higher risk of dementia yet some younger people at 40 can develop an early onset dementia. “Dementia slowly degreases the functions of the brain with a shortened life of 8-12 years (www.alz.org) People with the dementia need professional providers to care for the daily needs, a cost not covered by health insurance.

For the start of the Australian winter I was honored to help in a fundraiser for dementia research. I judged the tag team event with Steve Harrison from Global Surf Tag. The event featured 18 surfers that raised over $90,000 for the charity “Wipeout Dementia”. The ambassadors who surfed in the event for charity were: Richard Grellman former ASP CEO (now WSL), Wayne “Rabbit” Bartholomew former World Champ of the WSL and Tony Abbott the Prime Minister of Australia. The event ran in solid 6 to 8 foot south swell at Queenscliff Beach with two teams of 9 guys surfing in a 1-hour and half and counting their best one wave adding to the team’s total score. Keeping to the theme of the fundraiser, the boys took on the surf with epic rides and even more epic “wipeouts”. This charity is a great way to contribute and create a change for the future of friends or family members that may have dementia. If you are interested in supporting into research for dementia that will help all over the world please check out cheba.unsw.edu.au Some extra highlights of the event can be found at www.smh.com.au

 

Wipeout Dementia blade

Wipeout Dementia blade

Wayne "Rabbit" Bartholomew, Steve Harrison, Tony Abbott at the Queenscliff Life Saving Club

Wayne “Rabbit” Bartholomew, Steve Harrison, Tony Abbott at the Queenscliff Life Saving Club

The Prime Minister of Australia exhausted after taking on the surf.

The Prime Minister of Australia exhausted after taking on the surf.

The Teams face off

The Teams face off

Queenscliff with some solid bombs

Queenscliff with some solid bombs

 

Sources

http://cheba.unsw.edu.au

http://www.thedementiamomentum.org

http://www.smh.com.au/federal-politics/political-news/tony-abbott-braves-rough-surf-for-dementia-fundraiser -20150523-gh819v.html

http://www.alz.org/alzheimers_disease_what_is_alzheimers.asp

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dementia

http://www.globalsurftag.com

http://www.worldsurfleague.com

 

Kirra Teams Challenge

Each year, Kirra Teams Challenge is held up on the Gold Coast. The event has potential to be run at pumping barrels of Kirra but usually takes place at the fun peaks of Duranbah. This is a national event, setup for Eight Surfers (6 Open, 2 Juniors) to compete for their club. The contest is set up with 4 man heats, and everybody from the team’s surfs one heat each, the points are added up from your placing and the heat totals to create a grand total for the team. There were 38 teams from around Australia showing up with some of their top club surfers. We were lucky to have a Cyclone hanging around creating some waves in the overhead range and had really playful Dbah with 4 guys in the water for the heats. Queenscliff Boardriders Club had a good showing with 4 of the surfers winning their heats and finishing 12th overall but one heat win away from the top spot.

Super Bank

Super Bank

Dbah from the Cafe

Dbah from the Cafe

Rock watchers (Samson,Penny,Danga, me) Photo Steven Coulter

Rock watchers (Samson,Penny,Danga, me) Photo Steven Coulter

Candy time (Riely, Pagey, Danga, Wave Rat, Samson, Penny, me)   Photo Steven Coulter

Candy time (Riely, Pagey, Danga, Wave Rat, Samson, Penny, me) Photo Steven Coulter

When your boardbag is to heavy, check one in at a time

When your boardbag is to heavy, check one in at a time

Scott Sherwood (1968-2015) RIP

Scott Sherwood (1968-2015) RIP   Photo Grayson Adams

Photo Grayson Adams

I was at loss of words when I found out that Scott passed away this January. The days before I was sending him some footage of the new board he shaped me and was thinking of something new we could work on for our next project. I know Scott had been battling through Cancer and chemotherapy treatments for almost a decade now but his commitment to what he enjoyed doing was contagious. Scott was a friend, a shaper and a life long San Diegian. His passion for surfboard shaping has brought a lot of stoke to me and many surfers around the world. He was really easy to talk to and bring up new ideas to his office. His words have sunk into my life “do what you want to in life”. I hope you are deep into your dreams, Thanks Scott for your friendship.

Scott doing what he loved Photo Seth Jordon

Scott deep in his office, creating Stoke for others. Photo Seth Stuckert

Great designs

Great designsUseable Stoke

On a Scotts "Cut throat" model at Georges  Photo Robby Schell

On a Scotts “Cut throat” model at Georges
Photo Robby Schell

2 3

Avasin Surfboards

Scotts Facebook

QBC Man on Man

Queenscliff Boardriders Club(QBC) had their end of the year “man on man” competition. There was a nice little wind swell for the day and a lot of the top surfers from the club showed up to win.  The prestige of the “man on man” event is that it showcases the best competitive surfers in the club and creates an entertaining day of high level surfing. Since 1978 in the clubs history there has been a lot of high level surfers from the WCT to the WQS including names like Rob Bain, Layne Beachley, Sam Page and Nick Riley. The new insurgence of competitive surfers from the club, like Nick “Danga” Buttler, Sophia Bernard and Ben Hamilton are leading the ratings and pushing the level of the monthly competitions that QBC organize for his members.  One of the features of the QBC includes a warm welcoming to traveling or overseas surfers (like me) that add dynamics to the club and an interesting way to write their history and share their pride. This years results were a mix of the locals and the traveling surfers playing rock, paper, scissors for priority and a “blow in” (as they say in Australia) played paper for the win😉 Thank you to all the club members for the sharing the stoke and camaraderie. Heres a mini film of the comp day through the eyes of a mini Charlotte.

Rock, Paper Scissors for priority. Photo Jake Somerville

Rock, Paper Scissors for priority with Ben. Photo Jake Somerville

Man on Man Champ: Austin Ware 2nd place: Ben Hamilton =3rd place: Danga, Jarred Sullivan

Oneill’s Coldwater Classic Invitational

O’Neill has turned the Coldwater Classic at Steamer Lane (Santa Cruz, CA) into an invitational event, they pick 15 unsponsored surfers and one wildcard video entry to compete for a sponsorship with the company and $50 grand budget. This year I was invited to compete along with my long time friend and traveling partner Nate Yeomans. Nate and I took the chance and drove up the coast. I enjoyed the quality of the event, it felt like a WCT event, with locker rooms, man-on-man heats, packaged gifts and parties for the athletes.

The first day saw a nice head high swell that came from Hurricane Ana that had produced south swell for Cali a week before the event and then slowed down, headed out to Hawaii and then regrouped and turned into a small storm again in the north and gave us some west swell for the comp. A unusually storm pattern to double on swell for Cali but that the season Cali has had this year. I know its called the Coldwater Classic but this year the ocean water has been unseasonable warm and I was overheating in a 3/2 Vapor X wetsuit from Bodyglove. Usually my hands and feet are frozen blocks but this year was more like the “coolwater classic”😉

Nate is a former Coldwater Classic in 2009 and looked like the guy to beat from the start of this event, dropping 8’s and 9 point rides each heat. I had some slow heats with the waves but I was able to put together one solid wave a heat but that wasn’t enough to get past my 3rd round heat. On the final day, Nate came out swinging, like he could taste the sponsorship and the day finished with Nate spraying champagne in the crowd and a new sticker on his board. Congrats Nate on the epic win!

 

The Golden Ticket

The Golden Ticket

It wouldn't be a classic without a fog bank

It wouldn’t be a classic without a fog bank

Heat Draw and format

Heat Draw and format

Locker Room

Locker Room

Nate and Rick Yeomans checking the Lane

Nate and Rick Yeomans checking the Lane

Nate Spraying the fans after the big win over local Shaun Burns

Nate Spraying the fans after the big win over local Shaun Burns

Snapping at Steamers photo by Ryan Craig

Snapping at Steamers photo by Ryan Craig

Glassy Steamers

Glassy Steamers

Swooping

Swooping photo by Marc Prefontaine

Sources

http://www.oneill.com/cwc/

Surf Photos: Marc Prefontaine (Oneill.com) and RyanCraigPhotography

 

 

Local Talent

A tall, dark and lanky Aussie has been digging into some California waves this summer. Pat Parker calls Manly, Australia home but his surfing roots started to grow in Bali. Pats surfing has a unique Indonesian flare and a solid Aussie assurance too, like if you comboed up a Kai Otton and Rizal Tanjung together.  Pat came over early this summer with his easy going family and they got their fix of burritos and Cali lifestyling.